Old Faithfuls: An ode to the overcoat
A new monthly style column, Old Faithfuls looks at the menswear staples you can always rely on, starting with the trusty overcoat
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Sprezzatura. Je ne sais quoi. Call it what you will, real style is a hard thing to pin down. When it comes to menswear, in particular, some of the most effortlessly elegant pieces are those that serve a purpose. After all, it’s no coincidence that many of the best dressed men throughout history were photographed looking cool while actually doing something. Steve McQueen wearing a waxed motorcycle jacket while, you guessed it, riding one; Miles Davis Jr rocking a double-breasted suit on stage, and James Dean donning a three-quarter length overcoat while battling the New York City cold. Performative style this is not.
Trends, of course, come and go – and what might be popular now may not be in a year’s time – but these icons prove that there are some timeless pieces that will always have a place in any well-dressed man’s wardrobe. Forget runways and TikTok; if you’re looking to buy quality pieces that will last you longer than a fashion cycle, you’re well advised to stick to the classics.
Enter Old Faithfuls: our new style column examining the pieces you can rely on to look good now and for years to come. First up, the overcoat. If there is one garment that serves a purpose, this is it. Designed to keep out the cold, it is the coat to reach for when the temperature creeps towards zero. Defined by its length – a classic overcoat should hit around the knee – and its heavy duty fabric, there are plenty of variations on the market, but all are essentially designed to keep you feeling warm and looking sharp.
Image: Connolly
Image: Huntsman
While the origins of the overcoat can be traced back to late 18th century Dandies like Beau Brummell, the design as we know it today was dreamt up by Scottish brand Crombie circa 1805, with one of the brand’s early overcoats was nicknamed the ‘Russian’. So called because it was intended to protect the wearer from the coldest of Russian winters, the nod made Crombie popular among Russian nobility, while its heavyweight wool and sharp, almost militaristic look appealed to European royalty and aristocracy. Further developments resulted in notch lapels, velvet collars on dressier styles, and a distinctive ticket pocket at the waist and, thanks to its starry clientele, the signature Crombie style soon set the template for the modern, single-breasted coat worn around the world.
By the turn of the century, overcoats made from a thick, heavy wool had caught on on both sides of the Atlantic, with numerous variations becoming available as other designers put their own spin on the style. Single-breasted, double-breasted, structured shoulders and raglans, each one serving a slightly different purpose. The overcoats status as a staple was cemented by the mid-century, with everyone from Frank Sinatra and Edward, Prince of Wales, to Alain Delon and of course, James Dean, wearing them. Today, there might be other coats that’ll keep you warmer, but nothing comes close to the elegance of a well-chosen overcoat.
Timeless men’s overcoats
Saman Amel wool overcoat
Made in Italy from 100 per cent wool, this Saman Amel overcoat offers a slightly different take on the traditional overcoat. Cut to a long length, it has unstructured shoulders and a soft, easy-going feel, while a belt cinches in the middle, mirroring a look normally found on classic raincoats. A fly front keeps it sharp, while the soft collar and buttoned cuffs nod to tradition. This is the kind of coat you can throw over everything, from a similarly softly structured suit to a crew neck and jeans.
Thom Sweeney double-breasted overcoat
Combining Thom Sweeney’s expertise with unstructured tailoring with a double-breasted silhouette, this overcoat means business. DBs are traditionally fairly formal, but the soft cut lends this one a more relaxed look and feel. It comes with large front patch pockets, wide notch lapels and buttoned cuffs, as well as a soft textured wool fabric.
Mr P. overcoat
A very simple expression of the overcoat. Clean and classic, with a three button front, notch lapels, flap pockets and a mid-length cut, which sits above the knee. Softly structured shoulders lend shape but the coat is cut with enough room to allow for layering. The fabric blend, meanwhile, offers the best of both worlds; the warmth of wool and the softness of cashmere.
Conolly Martingale overcoat
Borrowing from traditional car coats with its shirt-style collar and British Racing Green lining, this Connolly design puts a subtle motoring spin on the classic overcoat. Cut from a herringbone brushed wool woven in the Tyrol region of Italy, it has an unstructured, oversized fit, as well as large front pockets and a half belt on the rear for good measure.
Huntsman cashmere overcoat
A smart, formal option that wouldn’t have looked out of place in Sinatra’s wardrobe. Cut from 100 per cent navy cashmere and, as with all Huntsman’s Savile Row suit, fully canvassed, ensuring it will mould to the wearer’s body like a second skin. As classic as it gets, it comes with clean notch lapels, a three-button front and flap side pockets.
