Old Faithfuls: Why good denim jeans never go out of style
Old Faithfuls looks at the menswear staples you can always rely on; this month, it’s denim jeans
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It’s difficult to overstate the impact denim jeans have had on modern culture. Certainly, they are among the most worn garments in the world, and wherever you go on the planet, they can be seen in all shapes, cuts and colours.
It would have been impossible for tailor Jacob W. Davis and merchant Levi Strauss to imagine just how popular their creation would be when they patented the first pair of jeans in 1873. Both immigrants to the US — Davis from Latvia and Strauss from Germany — the duo dreamt up jeans for the American West.
While marketed under Strauss’ name, it was Davis who came up with the idea of using rivets to strengthen trousers for hard use on the railroads and in the mines. Strauss’ imported denim was chosen for its durability and the style quickly took off, favoured by cowboys, miners and labourers throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Valentino SS26
Dior SS26
Denim’s mainstream popularity, however, didn’t truly surge until after World War II. Until this point, it was thought of purely as workwear, closely associated with blue-collar workers who needed tough clothing they could rely on day in, day out. Jeans entered the mainstream in the 1950s, worn by figures including James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause and Marlon Brando in The Wild One. They quickly came to represent rebellion and, as a result, were widely adopted by youth cultures across America and the wider Western world. The tough fabric made them useful for wearing on motorcycles, while the straight tailored fit of the Levi’s 501 — still one of the most popular cuts in the world — made them smart and comfortable enough to wear every day.
In the UK, 1960s rockers loved them for their association with Brando and motorcycle gangs, while their rivals, the mods, opted for lighter pairs offering a more European look. This versatility and ability to be appreciated by all made denim jeans an enduring global success: they could be adapted in any way you wanted, pairing as well with a leather jacket as a tailored blazer.
Alongside its rivals Lee and Wrangler, Levi’s enjoyed a stronghold over the denim industry throughout much of the 20th century. But having sold its US factories in the late 1990s and moved production abroad, many denim purists now shop elsewhere. You can, of course, go vintage, with classic ‘Made in the USA’ Levi’s readily available on eBay and Vinted, but for new pairs built to last a lifetime, here are five brands that focus on quality over quantity.
The best denim jeans for men
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers NW1 selvedge jeans
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers handmakes all its jeans in its London factory. Its team sources fine denim from Japan and Turkey before cutting and sewing each piece under one roof. The brand also makes jeans for many other high-end labels, but its own namesake brand is the one to look for. These NW1 jeans feature a classic straight fit inspired by mid-century styles, while the raw 14oz Japanese selvedge denim will take on a unique patina with repeated wear.
&Sons Jenson straight fit jeans
Unless you go vintage, washed denim is difficult to get right. With the Jenson, however, &Sons has got it down. Cut in a straight fit with a mid rise, the 14oz denim is weighty yet soft and already broken in, offering immediate comfort from the first wear. Designed for maximum versatility, they look great dressed up with a knitted polo or down with a white tee and trainers.
Noah straight leg selvedge jeans
Black jeans might be the most versatile of all. They’re smart and are easy to pass off as trousers for more formal occasions, while also being understated and going with pretty much anything. New York brand Noah offers its straight cut jeans in a black selvedge denim, complete with copper rivets and a leather patch on the rear. Made in Japan, Noah is one of a number of smaller American brands doing denim properly.
RRL distressed jeans
RRL, Ralph Lauren’s workwear-inspired label, consistently produces exceptional heritage pieces. These jeans, for example, feature a heavily washed, distressed look that would be right at home on the railroads of the American West. Authentic vintage jeans from the early 20th century are now priceless museum pieces, but this pair offers a similar look and feel.
Visvim Social Sculpture jeans
Made in Japan from a 14oz Japanese selvedge denim, this pair ticks all the right boxes. Visvim is based in Tokyo and makes its jeans the old-fashioned way, with iron riveting, a button fly, double needle stitching and non-stretch denim. The Social Sculpture cut is a wide straight fit with a classic mid rise, a full leg and a generous hem to accommodate boots. For an old-school fit with contemporary flair, this is the pair.
