Old Faithfuls: The enduring appeal of the cable knit
Old Faithfuls looks at the menswear staples you can always rely on. This time, it’s the classic fisherman’s knit
All products are chosen independently by our editors. Luxury London may earn commission on items purchased.
For all-out warmth and a healthy dose of traditional style, the cable knit is a failsafe. Easy to style with laidback casualwear, like jeans, waxed jackets and boots, it’s a cold-weather staple that you no doubt already reach for time and again. A good, traditional cable knit is designed to last too, often woven by hand by those who’ve been doing so for generations. Ideal for layering or wearing on its own as a last line of defence against the chill, the cable knit is an underrated classic.
While often thought of as an ancient garment, the cable knit has its origins in Galway Bay in the Aran Islands, and is newer than you probably think. “Contrary to popular belief, the typical cable-patterned Aran jumper is a 20th-century invention,” explains the V&A website. “In 1891, the government set up the Congested Districts Board to help poor families survive unemployment and food shortages. The Board encouraged local people to weave and knit garments to sell. By the 20th century, this cottage industry began to take off and the Board trained knitters to create complex patterns.” One such pattern led to the creation of the cable-knit Aran sweater, with a cross-stitched design intended to improve insulation and roped knitted cables that referenced individual clans.
While older fisherman jumpers were usually made with oiled wool, these early cable knitters opted for yarn that was softer against the skin and undyed, resulting in the naturally flecked cream and ecru hues often associated with the cable knit. While it remained a key part of the fisherman’s kit for decades after, the cable knit really took off in the 1950s and ‘60s, when it was worn by Elvis Presley in Jailhouse Rock and Steve McQueen in The Thomas Crown Affair. Already a functional piece, these Hollywood appearances lent the knit a slightly more glamorous feel, proving it was as stylish as it was functional.
Today, it remains a garment synonymous with practical, easy-going style and one you can rely on in the cooler months and beyond.
The best cable knits for men
&Sons
Made in the UK from 100 per cent British wool, the Clyde knit is based on traditional Aran styles, with its distinctive roping and multitude of patterns. A proper, chunky jumper, it’s designed to last a lifetime, and works perfectly with selvedge denim, field jackets and leather boots. Given its heavyweight wool and chunky weave, traditional cable knits like this should be layered under more relaxed outerwear. They also work well as outer layers, offering plenty of style and warmth in the transitional months.
Zegna
An investment piece in every sense of the word, Zegna’s deep green cardigan may sport a seriously healthy price tag but, for that, you get 100 per cent cashmere construction and Made in Italy quality. A guarantee, in other words, that you’ll still be wearing this on repeat in a decades time – and just think about the bargain cost per wear on that…
Dunhill
This is a traditional cable knit on the surface, with its neutral colour, classic knitted roping and crew neck design. Dunhill has, however, updated it with a soft cashmere-linen fabric, making it lightweight and exceptionally soft against the skin. With less pronounced stitching and a smart, tailored fit, this jumper pairs best with sharp trousers, shirts and, in slightly warmer weather, loafers.
Polo Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren has always produced staples you can rely on. This take on the cable knit from the Polo collection comes with a slightly slimmer fit, a versatile navy shade and the brand’s signature pony logo at the chest. Tap into RL’s preppy heritage and combine it with wide-fit chinos, Oxford shirts and suede desert boots.
Oliver Spencer
Borrowing from the nonchalance of classic Riviera style, this short-sleeve knitted polo has been given the cable treatment, with patterned rows adding plenty of texture. It also shows that the cable knit doesn’t have to be a long-sleeve crew neck. An easy-going piece that references mid-century style with its button-through front, try wearing it as part of a monochrome look with black jeans and leather derbies.
Corneliani
With its unusual roped stitching, this Corneliani knit has a subtle point of difference while remaining classic and easy to wear. Woven from a mid-weight wool and cashmere blend fabric, it’s perfect for pairing with other smart-casual staples. Think pleated trousers, a lightweight Harrington jacket and brown suede Chelsea boots.
