On 13 March 2025, new creative directors were announced at two of the world’s biggest fashion houses – Versace and Gucci – and they weren’t even the first appointments to be announced that week. Much has been written about the ‘revolving door’ of fashion creative director moves, with designers seemingly endlessly jumping from house to house as the whims of their own artistic pursuits or (more commonly) economic realities and the wishes of the board dictate.

What follows can be a complete reinvention and rejuvenation of a much-loved fashion house – see Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta and Alessandro Michele at Gucci – or a vibe shift that does little but alienate loyal customers (side eye: Hedi Slimane’s ‘new Celine’). So why the endless merry-go-round? While at some houses it is simply the nature of business (Donatella Versace stepped down this year after 27 years at the helm), replacing the creative director is often the go-to move for a fashion house in financial turmoil – Demna’s appointment to Gucci comes amid a 46 per cent slump in profits – but, for the designer in question, what seems like a savvy career move can become something of a poisoned chalice.

Burberry AW25 by Daniel Lee

Valentino Couture Spring 2025 by Alessandro Michele

After all, every fashion house comes with its own unique history, archive and signature look – as does every designer. Should the two not quite be a match made in heaven, well, not all marriages are made to last; what may have been a star-making style at one house may receive, at best, a lukewarm reception and, at worst, outright resistance at another.

Take, for example, the aforementioned Daniel Lee. When promoted from relative obscurity working under Phoebe Philo at Celine to the top job at Bottega Veneta in 2018, Lee’s focus on clean lines, impeccable craftsmanship and a complete revamp of the house’s accessories collection saw its fortune fly. When parachuted in to do the same for floundering British brand Burberry in 2023, however, Lee’s attempts to breathe new life into the heritage Burberry check and trench coat fell a little flat. Sales fell by 18 per cent in 2024 and, in response, the brand announced a £65 million cost-cutting plan. Lee remains in place for now (and, in truth, his AW25 collection for the brand was one of his strongest to date) but, as ever, rumours continue to swirl.

So, who’s brave enough to take the plunge? Stay up to date with our to-the-moment guide to all the high fashion creative director moves of 2025.

January

Bottega Veneta: Louise Trotter becomes creative director, replacing Matthieu Blazy who is headed to Chanel.

Dior Homme: Kim Jones steps down as creative director.

Maison Margiela: Belgian designer Glenn Martens replaces John Galliano as creative director, while retaining his position at the helm of Diesel.

Proenza Schouler: Co-founders and creative directors, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, announce their departure from the brand after 23 years at the helm.

February

Gucci: Sabato de Sarno announces his immediate departure, with the brand’s AW25 collection credited to the wider Gucci creative team.

Jil Sander: Luke and Lucie Meier announce they will be stepping down after eight years at the brand.

Jil Sander AW25 by Luke and Lucie Meier

Gucci AW25

March

Jil Sander: Simone Bellotti is announced as creative director, leaving his position at Bally.

Versace: Donatella Versace steps down as creative director after 27 years, becoming chief brand ambassador, and is replaced by Dario Vitale.

Gucci: Demna is appointed artistic director, commencing his role in July 2025, and leaving his position at the helm of Balenciaga.

Loewe: Jonathan Anderson announces his departure after a hugely successful 11-year tenure amid rumours he will be taking the top job at Dior. He remains at the helm of his eponymous brand JW Anderson. Later the same month, Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are announced as Anderson's successors.

Carven: Mark Howard Thomas is appointed director of design to fill the shoes of Louis Trotter.

April

Dior Men: Following his departure from Loewe, Jonathan Anderson is confirmed as the new creative director at Dior Men, with his first collection to be revealed in June 2025. He succeeds fellow british designer Kim Jones.

Jean Paul Gaultier: After five years of rotating guest designers, Jean Paul Gauliter anounced Belgian designer Duran Lantink would become its permanent creative director for ready-to-wear and couture, showing his first collection for SS26.

Mugler: Portuguese designer Miguel Castro Freitas officially replaces Casey Cadwallader as creative director.

May

Balenciaga: Former Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli is appointed to lead Balenciaga, replacing Demna. Known for his floaty, feminine designs and use of colour and embroidery, it marks a deliberate shift in tone from Demna's streetwear-inflected designs.

June

Dior: Just days after presenting the brand's Cruise 2026 collection in her birthplace of Rome, Maria Grazia Chiuri announces her departure from Dior. Days later, Jonathan Anderson, recently confirmed as the new creative lead at Dior Men, is announced as Chiuri's successor, responsible for men's, women's and haute couture collections.

July

Marni: Belgian designer Meryll Rogge is announced as the new creative director of Marni. Rogge succeeds Francesco Risso, who stepped down after almost ten years at the brand in June.

Fendi SS26 by Silvia Venturini Fendi

Alba Rohrwacher in Dior by Jonathan Anderson. Image: Getty Images

September

Proenza Schouler: American designer Rachel Scott, founder of Diotima, becomes the new creative director of Proenza Schouler. The CFDA award-winning designer replaces founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez and will show her first collection in February 2026.

Fendi: Italian fashion house Fendi announces that Silvia Venturini Fendi will transition to a new role as Honorary President, saying in a statement that in her new position she will "focus on supporting Fendi’s heritage, while continuing to champion the brand worldwide and promoting the maison’s rich history, exceptional craftsmanship, and the world of Fendi Casa." Venturini Fendi, who has been a senior creative figure at Fendi since 1992, presented her last collection for the brand at Milan Fashion Week in September 2025.

October

Fendi: Following the announcement of Silvia Venturini Fendi's transition, the Italian house appoints former Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri as chief creative officer. A hoemcoming of sorts, Grazia Chiuri spent a decade at Fendi in the 1990s, where she pioneered its best-selling Baguette bag.

Hermès: British designer Grace Wales Bonner is appointed creative director of menswear, succeeding Véronique Nichanian, who has spent 37 years in the post. Wales Bonner will continue at the helm of her eponymous brand and show her first collection for Hermès in January 2027.

November

Balmain: Following a change of leadership, Balmain announced that long-time creative director Olivier Rousteing would be stepping down. Having helmed the brand since 2011, Balmain was the first Black designer ever to be appointed creative director at a legacy French fashion house and increased sales at Balmain tenfold during his tenure. A successor has yet to be announced.

December

Versace: Following the Prada Group's acquisiton of Versace, it is announced that creative director Dario Vitale will be exiting the brand. The house says it will announce a new 'creative configuration' in the coming months. Vitale had been in the position for just nine months, replacing Donatella Versace in March 2025.

Read more: The must-see looks from the AW25 collections