On 13 March 2025, new creative directors were announced at two of the world’s biggest fashion houses – Versace and Gucci – and they weren’t even the first appointments to be announced that week. Much has been written about the ‘revolving door’ of fashion creative director moves, with designers seemingly endlessly jumping from house to house as the whims of their own artistic pursuits or (more commonly) economic realities and the wishes of the board dictate.

What follows can be a complete reinvention and rejuvenation of a much-loved fashion house – see Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta and Alessandro Michele at Gucci – or a vibe shift that does little but alienate loyal customers (side eye: Hedi Slimane’s ‘new Celine’). So why the endless merry-go-round? While at some houses it is simply the nature of business (Donatella Versace stepped down this year after 27 years at the helm), replacing the creative director is often the go-to move for a fashion house in financial turmoil – Demna’s appointment to Gucci comes amid a 46 per cent slump in profits – but, for the designer in question, what seems like a savvy career move can become something of a poisoned chalice.

Burberry AW25 by Daniel Lee

Valentino Couture Spring 2025 by Alessandro Michele

After all, every fashion house comes with its own unique history, archive and signature look – as does every designer. Should the two not quite be a match made in heaven, well, not all marriages are made to last; what may have been a star-making style at one house may receive, at best, a lukewarm reception and, at worst, outright resistance at another.

Take, for example, the aforementioned Daniel Lee. When promoted from relative obscurity working under Phoebe Philo at Celine to the top job at Bottega Veneta in 2018, Lee’s focus on clean lines, impeccable craftsmanship and a complete revamp of the house’s accessories collection saw its fortune fly. When parachuted in to do the same for floundering British brand Burberry in 2023, however, Lee’s attempts to breathe new life into the heritage Burberry check and trench coat fell a little flat. Sales fell by 18 per cent in 2024 and, in response, the brand announced a £65 million cost-cutting plan. Lee remains in place for now (and, in truth, his AW25 collection for the brand was one of his strongest to date) but, as ever, rumours continue to swirl.

So, who’s brave enough to take the plunge? Stay up to date with our to-the-moment guide to all the high fashion creative director moves of 2025.

January

Bottega Veneta: Louise Trotter becomes creative director, replacing Matthieu Blazy who is headed to Chanel

Maison Margiela: Belgian designer Glenn Martens replaces John Galliano as creative director, while retaining his position at the helm of Diesel

February

Gucci: Sabato de Sarno announces his immediate departure, with the brand’s AW25 collection credited to the wider Gucci creative team

Jil Sander: Luke and Lucie Meier announce they will be stepping down after eight years at the brand

Jil Sander AW25 by Luke and Lucie Meier

Gucci AW25

March

Jil Sander: Simone Bellotti is announced as creative director, leaving his position at Bally

Versace: Donatella Versace steps down as creative director after 27 years, becoming chief brand ambassador, and is replaced by Dario Vitale

Gucci: Demna is appointed artistic director, commencing his role in July 2025, and leaving his position at the helm of Balenciaga

Read more: The must-see looks from the AW25 collections