The new way to wear a trouser suit now
Four tailoring experts on how to style the oversized suiting trend taking this season by storm
From the workplace to weddings, the tailored trouser suit has become a wardrobe go-to for many women in recent years. However, it’s taken on a louche new look for SS25 – and we’ve been obsessed ever since Saint Laurent sent models in oversized power suits down the runway at Paris Fashion Week back in September.
Then Ayo Edebiri took a leaf out of Julia Robert’s book, wearing a sharp Loewe suit to the 2025 Golden Globes to pick up her award for Best Television Actress, and the deal was sealed: oversized, menswear-inspired suiting is the only thing we want to wear this spring.
Also on our suiting moodboard this season? Stella McCartney, Victoria Beckham, Erdem and Tove’s SS25 collections, all of which showed elegantly laidback, oversized suits that feel perfect for right now. There’s a bit more to nailing the look than meets the eye, however. We’ve asked four style experts for their advice on how to perfect the new way to wear a suit.
Max Mara SS25
Stella McCartney SS25
1. It’s All About Attitude
“The current wave of suiting feels like a natural evolution of everything I love – strong, androgynous tailoring with an effortless, sensual edge,” explains Melissa Bell, stylist and founder of Atelier Ninety Five, which has just launched its first oversized suit.
She maintains that it’s all about “attitude and precision” when it comes to nailing the look. Aim for “sharp shoulders, nipped waists, fluid yet powerful silhouettes”. “Go full volume,” she advises. “Let the oversized fit do the talking – keep everything loose but ensure the proportions are intentional.”
The ‘80s is a key decade to look to for this trend, when an economic boom saw a rise in the ‘power suit’. Bell advises looking at old images from the Mugler, Armani and Claude Montana collections from that decade for inspiration.
Meanwhile, Daisy Knatchbull, founder of Savile Row women’s tailor Knatchbull, looks to old-school stars when creating both her ready-to-wear and bespoke suits. “There are so many, but my all-time favourites are effortlessly elegant, chic and timeless women that favour the slightly oversized and androgynous aesthetic, such as Lauren Hutton, Katharine Hepburn and Jane Birkin,” she says.
The right attitude – coupled with impeccable tailoring – is also important for Knatchbull. “The number one secret to wearing a suit well is to ensure it fits you properly and is tailored to your body/needs,” she explains. “Feeling comfortable and exuding confidence will always be essential when wearing any outfit but it’s especially important with tailoring.”
2. For a Modern Feel, Look to Menswear
The SS25 oversized suiting trend very much takes its cues from the world of men’s tailoring. ‘“We have always been inspired by menswear tailoring [and] the heritage of it,” explains Pip Durell, founder of With Nothing Underneath, which started in shirting and launched its first Hutton blazer this January.
“Borrowing-from-the-boys is by no means a new concept but putting the concept into practice it’s all in the details, the proportion play,” she continues. “When it comes to tailoring the WNU look is slightly oversized; our Hutton blazer has a strong shoulder, but then a very elegant lapel to draw the eye to the waist – giving an illusion of curvature while maintaining the masculinity of the cut.”
For art director and stylist Madeleine Moxham, who has grown a following documenting her oversized suiting looks on Instagram (@moxhamstore), she quite literally enjoys borrowing from the boys to achieve her outfits. “I stole lots of oversized blazers from my dad’s wardrobe that I can wear with trousers of a similar colour to get a suit effect,” she says. “You can also find loads of great men’s blazers in charity shops. A suit is a no-brainer so it always frees up your time to think about interesting colour combinations and layering pieces.”
With Nothing Underneath
Atelier Ninety Five
3. Think About Your Shirt Game
Once you’ve nailed the oversized suit (and maybe raided the wardrobes of the men in your life), think about what’s underneath. A classic white shirt is a great jumping-off point – but there are more interesting ways to style a suit, too.
“Inspired by the style of icons such as Lauren Hutton and Charlotte Rampling, I would mix materials to play on this look,” says Durell. “Swap out the cotton work shirt for an easy denim shirt that juxtaposes against the sharpness of a suit, making the look feel a little more undone and effortless.”
There are endless options here, agrees Moxham, throwing out a few ideas to take your suiting up a notch: “Cashmere crewnecks with your T-shirt collar just peeping out; long flowing shirts underneath shorter, boxy blazers; sheer long sleeve T-shirts with cuffs poking out; tonal colour drenching; a powder blue jumper under a chocolate brown suit.” The key message here: don’t be afraid to play around and experiment with unexpected combinations.
4. Think Beyond the 9-5
Take inspiration from Ayo Edibiri’s red carpet look and break out a suit for any and all occasions. Remember, it’s all about how you style it. “A good silk shirt, well-cut white T-shirt, and a pair of trainers or stilettos will transition your suits beautifully from day to night whether you are leading a board meeting, picking up your kids from school, or attending a fabulous party,” says Knatchbull.
“I love how suiting is no longer confined to corporate settings,” agrees Bell. “It’s about self-expression, whether that’s an oversized, slouchy blazer with nothing underneath or a razor-sharp tux worn with a sheer blouse.” Moxham’s real pro tip however? She’s adamant that a hoodie under an oversized blazer “always looks great”.
5. Slick Accessories Seal the Deal
Moxham also opts to tone down her accessories when wearing outsized tailoring. “I’m quite minimal when it comes to accessories. I don’t really wear jewellery, for example, but a great belt can dress a suit up or down.”
Bell also likes to keep things simple yet bold when it comes to jewellery. “Statement earrings or sleek gold jewellery adds refinement without overpowering,” she says, adding that sharp sunglasses are also a must for her. “Think bold, angular frames to match the strong silhouette.”
Finally, while ties are definitely back on the runways (as seen at Saint Laurent) and on our moodboards, Durell flags a more relaxed alternative: a well-tied scarf or neckerchief: “I prefer to go for a more casual approach that has a nod to the trend.”
