SS23: Your complete guide to fashion month

01 Sep 2022 | Updated on: 27 Sep 2022 |By Ellie Goodman

Brush up on everything you need to know ahead of fashion month with our SS23 cheat sheet

There’s a chill in the air, leaves are lining the pavements, a certain grey tint has descended upon the capital, and just like that, fashion month is back. Promising a return to physical pre-pandemic blockbuster shows, big name brands and buzzed-about newcomers are once again filling schedules across New York, London, Milan and Paris. And, between the city swapping, creative director musical chairs and runway debuts, fashion month SS23 is already shaping up to be a triumphant comeback. As the editors, buyers, stylists and influencers descend on fashion’s capitals for a month of spectacle and style, we’re here with your complete guide.

Think of this as your SS23 cheat sheet, keeping tabs on everything you need to know to stay in the loop. From rising designers to watch and those making a return to the runway to the shows that everyone will be talking about, we’ve put our ears to the ground to get all the hot gossip.

New York Fashion Week, 9 – 14 September 2022

Michael Kors AW22
Michael Kors AW22

Over the last two years, as the pandemic gradually decimated New York Fashion Week’s blockbuster schedule, leaving but a handful of lesser-known designers filling out the calendar, talk began to circulate portending the demise of the American shows for good. This season, bolstered by the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) promotional programmes – including the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and its IMPACT initiative – NYFW is putting all of that talk to bed with a jam-packed schedule, featuring some of the biggest names in the business.

Kicking off fashion month with a bang, this season NYFW will play host to a handful of European brands as they attempt to make their mark on the Big Apple. First up, Italian house Fendi, under the creative direction of Kim Jones, is tipped to put on a spectacular runway special to celebrate 25 years of its cult Baguette bag (beloved by consummate New Yorker Carrie Bradshaw), followed by countryman Marni, which is taking its international tour de Marni across the pond to better reach a global audience. Elsewhere, Swedish H&M-backed brand Cos will make its New York debut after showing its first fashion week collection in London last year.

As for NYFW’s home-grown talent, those to watch include cult brands Peter Do, Collina Strada, and LaQuan Smith, while the return to physical shows will see New York City regulars Proenza Schouler, Gabriela Hearst, Tom Ford, Coach and Tory Burch return to the runways after pivoting to digital presentations for the last few seasons. Sadly, there’s no sign of Ralph Lauren, Diane von Furstenberg, Pyer Moss or Oscar de la Renta this season, but after a three-year hiatus (its last show was in London in February 2020) Tommy Hilfiger will make its hotly-anticipated catwalk comeback. Expect dazzling front rows and some serious street style.

Do: Say you always knew the Big Apple would be back.Don’t: Try too hard to get snapped by The Sartorialist.

London Fashion Week, 15 – 20 September 2022

Richard Quinn AW22

Having seen some of its biggest brands make the move to other fashion capitals during previous seasons, London Fashion Week, which has long been seen as an incubator for new talent, was finding firm footing as the home of the new-gen vanguard. All that looks set to change this season, though, as JW Anderson and Christopher Kane make their return to the London schedule.

Speaking of new-gen, Fashion East’s SS23 line-up promises to delight. Karoline Vitto and Standing Ground by Michael Stewart will make their LFW debuts, with Central Saint Martins grad Jawara Alleyne presenting his fourth and final collection under Lulu Kennedy’s non-profit incubator. Other rising designers to watch across LFW include Fashion East alumni Supriya Lele and Charlotte Knowles’s eponymous label, KNWLS.

Having previously shown its collections in presentation format, British Fashion Council and Vogue Fashion Fund nominee Chopova Lowena will make its catwalk debut this season. While across the week, burgeoning talents Di Petsa, SS Daley, Dilara Findikoğlu and Nensi Dojaka join LFW stalwarts Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, Erdem and Emilia Wickstead.

Do: Ditch taxis for the tube – faster and more environmentally friendly.Don’t: Forget your coat. London weather and Nensi Dojaka netting are not a match made in heaven.

Milan Fashion Week, 20 – 26 September 2022

Tod’s AW22
Tod’s AW22

Home to some of fashion’s most beloved heritage houses, Milan might offer little in the way of rising stars, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to look forward to once Milan Fashion Week rolls around. Quite the opposite, in fact, with superbrands such as Versace, Prada, Moschino, Fendi and Armani filling out the schedule. Back on the MFW calendar this season – despite announcing the brand’s departure from such structures – is Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, returning home for only the second time in over two years.

Having seen the appointment of no less than four creative directors across its exhibitors since last season, MFW promises a first look at the newly-minted direction of some of its biggest brands. These hotly-anticipated debut collections include those from British designer Maximillian Davis at Salvatore Ferragamo, Filippo Grazioli for Missoni, Rhuigi Villaseñar at Bally and Marco de Vincenzo for Etro. Meanwhile, Glenn Martens and Matthieu Blazy will present their sophomore collections for Diesel and Bottega Veneta, respectively, with Martens’ show open to the public – definitely worth fighting for a front row seat if you so happen to be passing through Milano. Other new names making their Milan debut include Act N°1, with support from Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Maison Valentino, and, in an interesting move for the typically-reserved fashion capital, Dolce & Gabbana-backed British rising talent, Matty Bovan.

Do: Break up your FROW snaps by ‘gramming as much pasta as physically possible.Don’t: Try to convince yourself you could probably find George Clooney’s Lake Como residence if you tried hard enough.

Paris Fashion Week, 26 September – 4 October 2022

Stella McCartney AW22
Stella McCartney AW22

Widely considered the de facto headline slot of fashion month, Paris will be closing out the season in style with a calendar boasting some of the biggest and brightest brands in the industry. Alongside shows from big ticket names, including Chanel, Dior, Miu Miu, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton, this season will mark the post-pandemic return of Japanese fashion houses Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe and Issey Miyake to the City of Light – the latter of which will present its first collection since the untimely passing of its eponymous designer earlier this year.

And though Alexander McQueen, Celine and Jacquemus are noticeably absent from this season’s schedule, their lack of presence is sure to be lessened by the addition of some new and exciting names. Crossing the channel, British brand Victoria Beckham will make its PFW debut this season, as will Australian outfitter Zimmermann, which typically shows Stateside. Meanwhile, stealth wealth brand The Row will show in Paris for the second season running, further distancing itself from its New York roots.

With relatively few unknown brands on the PFW schedule, those to watch are usually the up-and-comers who, despite having made a name for themselves, are often eclipsed by superbrands such as Valentino, Chloé and Balmain. This season, we’re keeping a keen eye on Marine Serre (the current enfant terrible of Paris Fashion Week), Vaquera, Botter and Ottolinger. The must-see show, however, is sure to be Off-White’s latest outing, marking the dawn of a new post-Virgil Abloh era under recently appointed Art and Image Director Ib Kamara.

Do: Dress to impress – Paris Fashion Week street style is no joke.Don’t: Try to blag your way into a show with your remedial knowledge of French. C’est pas cool.

Read more: How to get involved with London Fashion Week SS23