Forget ‘Mocha Mousse’ – Espresso Martini dressing is the trend you need to know this season
Deep, rich brown is the only hue we want to wear right now
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Pantone may have announced its 2025 Colour of the Year as ‘Mocha Mousse’ in December, but we were already on the brown bounce back, thanks to the colour ruling the runways at the SS25 shows. ‘Mocha Mousse’ is described by Pantone, usually the colour oracle, as “a warming, brown hue imbued with richness. It nurtures us with its suggestion of the delectable qualities of chocolate and coffee, answering our desire for comfort.” But in the fashion world, a slightly different hue has dominated wardrobes – and we’re calling it ‘espresso martini dressing’.
Darker, richer and more opulent than Mocha Mousse, this deep brown hue is sophisticated, elegant… and just a little bit sexy. It was seen at 16 Arlington, with its thick suede jacket and luscious faux fur coat, as well as executed in luxurious silk, leather and wool at JW Anderson and Fendi.
We drooled over ankle-length deep brown leather trench coats at Giorgio Armani and Ganni, marvelled at the oversized, deconstructed tailoring at Jason Wu and Max Mara, and how the hue was paired with other refined, earthy tones at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.
Ganni SS25
Fendi SS25
But the trend is not just for daywear: the ‘espresso martini’ hue has also been a favourite on the red carpet this awards season, with Quinta Brunson shining in Roberto Cavalli at the Golden Globes, while Zoe Saldana accessorised her sequinned Saint Laurent gown with a rich brown cape at the same event, and Salma Hayek sparkled in a V-neck Gucci column dress. And, as unlikely as brown gown may seem for the Oscars, Debbie Harry stole the show in a richly hues draped Gucci gown at the Vanity Fair Oscars after party (and Regé-Jean Page repped it for the men in an opulent Brunello Cucinelli chocolate velvet jacket).
Need further proof? Perhaps a royal seal of approval will do it. Deep, rich brown was cemented as the colour of the season when both Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, and Catherine, Princess of Wales, stepped out in the shade in recent weeks. Meghan sported a mid-length chocolate A.L.C. dress with a pleated skirt to the opening reception of the Invictus Games in British Columbia, accessorised with Cartier jewellery.
Salma Hayek in Gucci at the Golden Globes
Debbie Harry in Gucci at the Vanity Fair Oscar party
Catherine, meanwhile, has frequently stepped out in coffee-brown for recent public engagements, putting her own spin on the tailoring trend with a brown blazer for a trip to the National Portrait Gallery, and going for a tonal mix of knitwear and plaid for a visit to Pontypridd, south Wales.
All this is to say that, undoubtedly, ‘espresso martini’ is the leading colour trend for this season. “Brown resonates with a collective desire for warmth, authenticity, and timeless elegance,” says Emma Francois Grasset, founder of fashion brand Sessùn, which features the hue across its SS25 collection.
“I love its depth and versatility,” continues Grasset. “Brown has a softness that makes it easy to wear yet a richness that gives it character. It can be nostalgic, evoking worn leather or sun-faded fabrics, yet effortlessly modern when combined with the right textures and silhouettes. It’s a colour that tells stories.”
Michael Kors SS25
Max Mara SS25
But how to achieve the elevated espresso martini look? As demonstrated on the SS25 catwalks, the best way to style the hue for a contemporary effect is to choose textured fabrics, whether that’s glossy leather, shaggy faux fur, sleek silk or fleecy sheepskin. “Playing with fabric textures – corduroy, wool, silk – gives brown an effortless sophistication,” says Grasset.
Look for oversized silhouettes, too, and consider pairing a rich brown with other shades for a cool, modern feel. “The key is in contrast,” agrees Grasset. “Mixing different shades of brown – camel with espresso, rust with chestnut – creates dimension. Pairing it with unexpected tones, like soft blue, pistachio, or even a pop of mauve, can also make it feel fresh.”
Sandra Sándor, founder and creative director of Nanushka, meanwhile, sees the colour as the “ultimate neutral”. “It’s endlessly versatile and always feels just right,” she says. “I love how it lets me play with a full spectrum of shades, from deep and luxurious dark chocolate to soft and airy sand tones. It’s a colour I naturally gravitate towards when designing, and at Nanushka it has truly become a signature.”
The brand’s recently launched Sandi bag, in rich brown suede, is a great example of the trend. “It brings that timeless, effortless elegance I love so much,” says Sándor. As such, accessories are the perfect opportunity to add contrast and texture to an espresso martini outfit. “Accessories are also essential: gold jewellery, a structured bag, or a suede boot can elevate the look,” agrees Grasset.
Ultimately, espresso martini dressing is about looking effortless, elevated and cool – think Hailey Bieber in a floor-length, deep brown faux fur coat, jeans and suede loafers in Aspen, or Sofia Richie Grainge in an elegant, draped gown Saint Laurent gown at the LACMA Art + Film Gala.
It’s about choosing the hue for unexpected occasions – a silk, chocolate brown slip dress for a wedding, for example, or a rich brown leather blazer for the office. It’s the new way to do ‘quiet luxury’ – and it’s all we want to wear this spring.
