14 February 2020
Greek designer Eftychia Karamolegkou debuted her second on-schedule collection for London Fashion Week at 180 The Strand’s Discovery Lab. Last season’s presentation, which she named ‘The Last Meeting’, took place in a boardroom and featured twelve androgynous tailoring looks, and this collection followed suit in more ways than one.
Attendees were invited inside ‘Aviopolis’, an airport tableau complete with muffled tannoy announcements and roaring engines. This season, models showcased eleven looks by the designer, in hardworking shades of tobacco and smoky brown, shot through with rust and orange with nods to the seventies throughout. As women’s suiting takes off, with designers like Gabriela Hearst and tailoring house The Deck tapping into its potential, Eftychia’s eponymous label fuses references to England’s tailoring canon, such as roped shoulders and Prince of Wales checks, with Italy’s more relaxed influences, producing a collection that looks dreamy to wear and effortless to style. Hands were buried nonchalantly in pockets on the hip or built into the seam of a blazer, and models read books or scrolled on phones.
Last year, louche tailoring looks were snapped up by the likes of Phoebe Philo, and no doubt designers and buyers will be thrilled by this collection’s hero pieces, too: an A-line skirt cut in solaro fabric (a clever, subtly iridescent weave usually used by the Italian houses); an asymmetric shirt with a trench coat-style storm flap; double-breasted jackets styled open, reminiscent of menswear icons like Gianni Agnelli and his low-buttoning DB or Frank Sinatra and his unfastened jigger button.
Trousers – always a little too long, leaving an elegant break over the shoe – also seemed to be cut with a gentle curve in the outer leg, adding swagger and swing to the fabric. And ultimately, it felt like that’s what the collection was all about – movement (hence the airport setting), fluidity (in the fabric, fit and gendered rule-breaking) and fearlessness.