The AW24 trend report
A new season is right around the corner – and here’s what everyone will be wearing
The official start of autumn may not be until 21 September but it’s no secret that, in the fashion world, seasons don’t exactly match up to the realities of the Gregorian calendar. The SS25 fashion weeks kick off in New York on 12 September and no showgoer worth their Miu Miu miniskirt will want to be seen in anything other than autumn’s hottest new knitwear – even if it is still 35°C in Manhattan.
For those of us more interested in clothes that actually work for our everyday lives, the good news is that the big fashion story of the AW24 season is just that: practical, polished pieces that speak of good taste rather than a blind following of trends. Perhaps it’s a reading of the room – politics and economics have long held serious sway over what we want to wear – or maybe it’s simply a desire for designers to show their technical chops after (too many) seasons of Y2K-inspired frivolity. Either way, we’re here for it.
Take, for example, Gucci. The epitome of look-at-me fantastical fashion under Alessandro Michele, this season saw new creative director Sabato de Sarno show his sophomore collection for the brand: a parade of low-key, utilitarian silhouettes in a palette of grey, navy, burgundy and olive. All very elegant and understated. Or, as the designer himself put it a little more poetically, “My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality. Because I am not searching for another world to live in, but rather of ways to live in this world.”
So, now we know the general mood of the season, let’s talk specifics. What will we all actually be wearing for the next six months? Here’s our guide to the key trends to know about now.
Town & Country
Bally
Burberry
Fendi
Don’t have the capacity (or wardrobe space) for a whole host of new autumn trends? This is your two-for-one ticket to easy seasonal style. The clue here is in the name and it’s the way British aristos have been dressing for generations: tweeds and argyles in the country, suits in the city. For AW24, geographical restrictions no longer apply and, while you’re more than welcome to dig out your granny’s herringbone skirts (we all love a bit of vintage), on the runways designers played with interesting details and cuts to keep things fresh. See Fendi’s sophisticated plaid-knit combinations, Burberry’s voluminous check coats and Bally’s modern spin on the skirt suit for inspiration.
The bold shoulder
Galvan London
Sportmax
Carolina Herrera
Wallflowers look away, this season’s silhouettes are all about taking up space – literally. From Stella McCartney and Saint Laurent to Sportmax and Carolina Herrera, barely a coat, blazer or jacket was seen without exaggerated shoulders. The look is far from uniform, however. Whether your preference is for straight-cut ‘80s-style power shoulders, rounded, curvaceous silhouettes, or more subtle sloping numbers, there’s a shoulder pad out there for everyone this autumn. Maybe just take off your jacket before you get on the tube.
Old money
Richard Quinn
Dior
Simone Rocha
A more youthful extension of the town and country trend, and building on the vogue for quiet luxury that has dominated for some seasons, ‘old money’ sees an embrace of skirt suits, modest necklines, brooches and elegant flats befitting a mid-century Hitchcock heroine. And while the look is traditional, the vibe is anything but staid. Rather, the aim here is for a ladylike but girlish femininity. Think Prada’s pretty bows, Miu Miu’s shift dress-and-pearl combinations, Richard Quinn’s frothy evening gowns, Simone Rocha’s faux fur coats and Erdem’s elbow-length gloves.
It’s a wrap
Paul Costelloe
Casablanca
Dior
Designers are heralding the arrival of the cosy season with pieces that promise just that. Envelope yourself in swathes of blanket-style cashmere, swaddling duvet coats, cocooning capes, and slouchy sweaters – all designed to be wound around the body as insulating armour. On the runways, your go-tos here are Casablanca, Rochas, Issey Miyake and Tove – but don’t be surprised if this is the trend that trickles all the way down to the high street.
All burgundy everything
Jil Sander
Etro
Chet Lo
Autumnal tones are hardly groundbreaking for, well, autumn but given the onslaught of Barbie pinks, bright whites and ‘brat’ greens that have been dominating the trend cycle, the navies, olives and mustards that held forth on the AW24 catwalks felt rather refreshing. Chief among these more demure hues was burgundy, which cropped up on accessories, outerwear and even as full monotone looks at Chet Lo, Burberry, Etro, Jil Sander and more. The easiest (and longest lasting) way to add it to your wardrobe this season? Via a minimalist handbag – The Row has the perfect piece.
A subtle sparkle
Versace
Valentino
Michael Kors
AW24 may be all about function and practicality but that doesn’t mean there isn’t room for a little bit of shimmer. After all, we’re all going to need something with a touch of glitter come Christmas. Forgo bold embellishments and heavy beading in favour of softer, more textured sparkle. Think tinsel-style fringing (Valentino, Tory Burch), glimmering knits (Dries Van Noten, LaPointe), and glinting accessories (Hervé Léger, Ganni).
Fabulous feathers
Frolov
Annie's Ibiza
David Koma
This season’s one concession to frivolity comes from a rather exuberant place: feathers. While texture in the form of faux fur and shearling was in abundance throughout, it was feathers in all their technicolour glory that proved this season’s most joyful adornment. For partytime look to David Koma and Annie’s Ibiza, who offer voluminous plumes in rainbow hues, while feathers also found their place for daytime on hems and sleeves at Elie Saab and Erdem.
