Hermès bags: The complete buyer’s guide
From the legendary Birkin to the coveted Kelly, get the lowdown on fashion’s most iconic bags
If you haven’t heard of the Hermès Birkin bag by now, well, you must be living under a rock. A VIP in the luxury handbag world which has gained celebrity status, featured in iconic TV series and become almost a thing of myth for fashion fans across the globe, owning an Hermès bag is kind of a big deal. In short: Hermès is the brand for hugely coveted killer handbags.
But, before we get into what it takes to actually get your hands on one, let’s go back to 1837 Paris, where it all began. Thierry Hermès, a harness maker, opened a workshop on Rue Basse-du-Rempart, in the ninth arrondissement, to create his equestrian leather goods. In 1880, Thierry’s son Charles-Émile Hermès moved the workshop over to 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and set up the family’s first store, providing fine leather saddles and harnesses to French nobility and gaining an impressive reputation across Europe.
Fast-forward to the 1920s interwar period and Hermès starts offering more than just horse attire, with collections featuring small leather goods, fashion items, jewellery, scarves, and, in 1935, its first bag. Originally named the Sac à Dépchêches, but known and loved today as the Kelly, this was followed by the Constance in 1959, and the famous Birkin in 1984.
Highly exclusive and a real investment, to be in the Hermès bag clan, you will need to put in some groundwork – one does not simply walk into an Hermès boutique and buy a Birkin off the shelf. Like a rare Rolex, obtaining an Hermès bag is all about nurturing your relationship with the fashion house and specific sales associates in the stores.
Show your love for the brand, preferably by buying a lot from its fashion and accessories collections, and you stand a chance of being approved. Found your dream bag? Even once approved, only a select number from each collection is handed to each boutique so you’ll be put on a waiting list. Patience is a virtue, after all.
Alternatively, pre-owned and vintage bags are always an option. They still come with pretty hefty price tags – and you’ll need to be lucky (and diligent) to find your ideal design – but deliver more instant gratification.
Why are Hermès bags so popular?
Simply put, Hermès is special. A family-run business that has been going for generations and keeps most of its production in France, its designs are as innovative and chic as they are functional and versatile. Hermès’ craftsmanship is also second-to-none, showcasing the very best know-how and perfectionist skills in all its items, including handbags. Materials are high-quality, with fine leathers including Togo, Clemence and Epsom, and pieces are crafted with immense attention to detail. Each bag is also steeped in history and has a great story behind it, which makes them even more desirable.
Of course, there’s also the fact that each design is made in strictly limited numbers, meaning demand far outstrips supply. Hard to get and frequently spotted on red-carpet celebrities, Hermès handbags have become some of the most longed-for items of all time.
How to care for your Hermès handbag
Once you’ve got an Hermès in your hands, you’re running with an elite crowd, so it’s paramount that you look after your precious item the way it deserves. Do things right and it will last a lifetime.
When not gracing your shoulder or held in your hand, the best place for your bag is the dust cover and box it came with (if you still have it). Keep away from direct sunlight and rain and avoid extreme temperatures – the leather will not like it. Make sure any oily products, ink or perfumes are far away too, and if your bag does come into contact with any of these, wipe immediately with a soft, lint-free cloth.
It’s also recommended that you do not overfill your bag in order to maintain its structure and stuff it when empty to keep its shape (tissue paper or bubble wrap will work well). Definitely don’t hang it by its handles or straps and have it cleaned regularly by the experts at Hermès for best longevity.
The most iconic Hermès bags
Hermès Birkin
Image: Shutterstock/Everett Collection
Image: Shutterstock/Everett Collection
Who would have thought such an iconic item could be ideated in the sky? Well, former CEO of Hermès, Jean-Louis Dumas, made it happen among the clouds in the 1980s. After finding himself sitting next to British actress and ‘It girl’ of the time, Jane Birkin, on an Air France flight to London, Dumas discovered she couldn’t find a suitable bag for her needs and quickly sketched a design. In 1984, the Birkin bag was born.
The most famous Hermès bag, and probably one of the most famous designer handbags of all time, the Birkin features a sharp rectangular shape crafted from the brand’s signature heritage leathers, including Epsom and Togo, or more exotic crocodile and ostrich. It has a spacious body and two rolled top handles for a structured, sophisticated style. It stands on four metal feet, has a turnlock closure, and is available in an array of sizes (from 25cm up to 40cm), colours and limited-edition styles.
The bag is a hot favourite among A-listers and the fashion set, with fans including Jennifer Lopez, Victoria Beckham, Heidi Klum and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. Singaporean socialite and entrepreneur, Jamie Chua, is thought to have the largest collection while Samatha Jones famously said, “It’s not a bag; it’s a Birkin” in a legendary Sex and the City scene, helping put the bag on the map.
Hermès Kelly
The first Hermès bag was launched in 1935, then named Sac à Dépchêches, as a plain, simple design for one of the Hermès family’s wives, but it was not until the 1970s that it hit the headlines. American actress and Princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly, used the bag to conceal her baby bump from the paparazzi while filming To Catch a Thief, giving the bag immediate Hollywood status. It was, accordingly, renamed the Kelly in 1977.
The Kelly is known for its trapezoidal silhouette and comes in two main styles: the Sellier and the Retourne. Both classic designs are available in large to mini sizes; the Sellier has visible stitching and pointed edges for a structured feminine vibe, while the Retourne has softer edges and is less formal. Both Kellys come in a variety of colours and leathers, with a Touret clasp and padlock. The collection is smart, shapely and suitable for all types of occasions and outings.
Hermès Constance
In 1959 came a new Hermès innovation from the designer Catherine Chaeillet, who had just had a baby girl. The bag was named after her daughter, Constance and has since graced the shoulders of well-known figures from First Lady Jackie Kennedy to supermodel Emily Ratajkowski.
Quite a departure from the Birkin and the Kelly, the Constance is smaller in size, worn over the shoulder by an adjustable strap and is perfect for urban women on the go. It is characterised by its striking gold, palladium or rose gold ‘H’ clasp and rectangular shape and comes in several different mini or micro models, as well as a selection of colours. The most common models are the 18cm Constance Mini (perfect as a compact carrier for the bare necessities) and the 24cm Constance (a little more roomy but still good for travelling light).
Hermès Picotin
Perhaps a little more under-the-radar than its siblings, the Picotin bucket bag pays tribute to Hermès’ equestrian roots. Inspired by the shape of the feeder bags used for horses, and taking its name from an old French term meaning the measure of feed given to a horse, it gives a gentle nod to the heritage of the brand. Debuted in the 1950s, then relaunched in 2002 with the iconic ‘H’ closure added to the model, it’s now available in several sizes, from the Micro Picotin to the Picotin 26.
A minimalist design to hang on your wrist for a laid-back, casual look, the Picotin is crafted from fine Clemence or Maurice leathers and features two top handles, a wide, slightly slouchy leather body and four feet. It is complete with a padlock fastening for chic and clean-cut style for modern women on the move. The perfect day-to-night model, choose from classic tonal shades or bright hues for a pop of colour and pick sizes from 18cm to 33cm.
Hermès Evelyne
Similar to the Picotin in its equestrian silhouette, the functional and sporty Evelyne bag was designed in 1978 by the then-head of the Hermès riding department, Evelyne Bertrand. Originally created to transport equestrian equipment, the bag’s distinguishing feature is its central perforated ‘H’ logo, designed to allow airflow in and out of the bag to dry tools for horse groomers. Now it’s simply a signature aesthetic, synonymous with the brand’s timeless style.
The Evelyne is shaped like a saddlebag and has a detachable shoulder strap for easy wear and casual styling, ideal for everyday elegance and practicality. It comes in four sizes, which are all cut from fine leather, and is available in various seasonal colours.
Hermès Garden Party Bag and Steeple Bag
The Garden Party bag was first released in 1964 and makes the perfect travelling companion. Whether countryside dwelling or roaming on a city escape, its design is sleek and practical for adventurers and available in leather and canvas with button poppers for secure fastening. It has plenty of interior space too.
The Steeple bag also offers a great option for those on the move and blends rich leather and canvas for an uber-chic design. A contemporary tote bag, it stays true to the brand’s equestrian history with details including a stirrup accessory attached to its exterior.
